awa dori

Summer is the season of festival, upon festival in Japan. Every day you hear of a festival somewhere. You name it - they have a festival for it. One thing I have learned here is that the Japanese sure know how to work hard, and they also know how to play hard as well.

The past weekend, in the little prefecture of Kita Senri, where I work, the festival of owa dori was being held.

"Part of O-Bon rites to welcome ancestral spirits, Awa Odori started more than 400 years ago. This year, more than 100,000 locals and visitors are expected to dance all over the city of Tokushima into the early morning hours accompanied by shamisen, drums, flutes, and bells. One dance group (Niwaka-ren) for walk-in participants will feature simple steps and movements. "

This tradition was brought from Tokushima, and is now danced in many parts of Japan.

The little place of Kita Senri has recently been draped in red and yellow lanterns. Coming out of my branch from time to time, yet another decoration seems placed. And another food stand - housing fresh cooked meat, and japanese sweets is put up. The air is hot, and the sound of a festival is in the atmosphere. I see many people - both old and young, dressed in traditional colourful kimonos. And for this particular festival, a very unique style hat is worn - I think to simulate the hats that are worn on the rice fields. I hear the sound of the special geta shoes hit the ground as women rush to find their place in the special dance.

As night approaches, the air is thick with festival fever. So many children in yukata, with cotton candy and small goldfish they have won at a game stand. The people are starting to pile into the main courtyard and wait to see the many traditional dancers. And the moment comes...the sound of the heaviest drum, and the small flute begin to play. And the dancers enter. Their movements almost echo that of rice farmers - bending down low and reaching to the sky to give thanks for the harvest. The drums are loud. You cannot help but gaze at the brilliant costumes, and unique movements.

I notice that that is not only the adults who participate in this special tradition, but it also the very, very young as well. Small children dressed in traditional garb try to imitate the movements of their elders. And I spotted a very elderly man as well, who looks like he has been doing this year after year - as evidenced by the flick of his wrist, and the bright grin on his face. Watching all of this take place, you feel such a sense of community in the air. As I continued to watch, little did I know that I would be so overcome with inexplicable joy.

As the dance progresses, the participant gather in a circle. The drums continue to beat. Now slower and louder. The air is humid, and you can seemingly feel the drum beat in the air.

More people begin to gather...including a young girl in a wheelchair. Dressed in a yukata, she is lead into the circle and is swept across the floor, as everyone dances. Hands are in the air, including hers. Stretched so high. Dancing like the wheelchair is not even there. All I see is her shining face and her beautiful costume. Perhaps the most beautiful sight of the evening. Maybe the most beautiful sight of my life. As I write this, I weep. I have never seen such a strong image of community like I have tonight. Young and the old, the very young and the very old, those who are able bodied, and those who are carried by a special spirit.

As my time progresses in Japan, I feel like it is getting more and more difficult to put into words the things I am seeing and experiencing. I'm fighting give words to the speechless moments.

I guess tonight I though, what a great image of heaven. Community. Dancing. The beating of a drum. Languages. Colour. Light. Our gaze will be fixed on something great.