Wednesday, August 08, 2007

along the banks of the yodogawa






As I sit here, I feel as though the summer is sweeping me away. It is now August. The summers here, I have learned, are filled with festivals, events, fireworks, and hot humid weather. The airconditioner seeming to be your best friend.


A few days ago was the time of the annual Yodogawa fireworks festival in Osaka. Apparently about 400,000 people gather along the banks of the river to watch the fireworks display every year. And this year, I got to be apart of it. As I got off at the train station in Juso to meet my friend Emi, I was bombarded with crowds upon crowds of people.


Now is the season for the summer kimono - also known as a yukata. And they are traditionally worn at festivals such as these. You always know there is a special occassion when you see the young women wearing yukatas in the train. Their hair neatly tied back with a flower, and they take the tiniest steps in hopes of not showing their ankles, as to maintain their modesty. It seems like there are a sea of these women in colourful yukatas, scurrying along in their geta (small wooden sandals), and men in the jimbays accompanying them - all hoping to get a good spot along the waters edge.


My dear friend Emi and I managed to find each other, and we made our way to Juso station's crowded washroom so she could assist me in putting on my yukata. Along with the beautiful design of the yukata's, are also the impressionable obi (or belt) that are wrapped around your waist, and tied in a most interesting fashion in the back. Once dressed, we both made our way to the river.


As I was walking in my yukata, I couldn't help but feel Japanese in a way. I felt like I had become apart of something that had been going on for a long time. I had to take smaller steps, in order to accommadate my yukata, and as I caught a glimpse of myself in a passing window, I felt like this was a moment I had been waiting for.


Approaching the river, you see thousands and thousands of people - and the city skyline on the other side, compliments the view. The rivebank is lined with the greatest number of food stalls I have ever seen, with the largest variety of foods I have ever seen. And if you manage to find a seat, you can sit and enjoy both the sights, sounds and smells of this festival. All three are beautiful.


As Emi and I make our way to the blanket she has used to save our spot, we sit and wait. The moment arrives, we are surprised by the loud noise of the fireworks, the the silence of the people. Everyone turns their heads, and all eyes are on the starry sky and the bright flashes of light.


I am first struck by the large scale of these fireworks. Like none I have ever seen. Patterns, shapes, colours I have never seen. Or ever dreamed possible. The Japanese sure know how to do fireworks! I even spotted a few cartoon characters and one even shaped like the planet Saturn.


The sound around me is nothing but tbe loud crack of the fireworks, and the sound of childrens excitement "Sugei" "Subarashi" "Ahhh." With each firework comes anticipation for the next. Brighter. Louder. Bigger. More beautiful. Everyone else seemed to fall silent. I look at Emi, she looks at me - we both are awestruck with such a beautiful display of light! Its amazing that this can quiet such a large group of spectators. When watching such a beautiful display of light, it seems to be the only thing in the world that matters. I look around, and I think to myself...I'm in Japan. I'm wearing a yukata. And I'm surrounded by the Japanese. The atmosphere feels thick with culture. The moment when you completely live in the present. Its just you, the night, and the fireworks.


The show lasts for about one hour, and when it finishes - you wish it could keep going forever. You feel a little sad, but also inspired and full of hope at the same time.


As the excitement still looms in the air, everyone gets up, shakes off, and gathers their things. As I part ways with Emi, I feel hopeful for the next part of my journey here. Like these fireworks were somehow symbollizing my journey in Japan. A journey of sometimes mixed emotions, hopefulness, excitement, joy, surprise and bright lights.


Seeing perhaps the most magnificent fireworks I have seen made me recognize that life really is magical. It demands our attention. It can focus us, and distract us, it can make us work harder, and it can make us play harder too. It teaches us to stand, or to just sit for a while. A soak in the moment.

2 comments:

bri said...

that sounds incredible jane! I love it when you tell stories like this because it almost feels as though I am there

Anonymous said...

Well written article.